Hot Places

Daerim Changgo

Seoul · A 1970s rice warehouse, left as it was. Where Seongsu's big cafés began.

Travel highlight: 78 Seongsui-ro. Pop-ups and exhibitions run often next door.

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Yeonnam Bangagan Seoul Station

Seoul · Come for the sesame latte. Right by Seoul Station Exit 2.

Travel highlight: The sesame latte is the signature. There is no decaf.

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Angle 340

Seoul · Cheonggyecheon runs past the glass. Third floor.

Travel highlight: Window seats look down on Cheonggyecheon. Third floor.

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Susanna's Apron

Seoul · A large bakery café in Chungmuro, with an unusual range of bread.

Travel highlight: Open 8am to 10pm, with parking next door.

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Hyemindang

Seoul · Made by the same people as Coffee Hanyakbang, in an old building on the same lane.

Travel highlight: On the same lane as Coffee Hanyakbang — most people see both.

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Onion Seongsu

Seoul · A factory left exactly as it was found — the template for Seongsu's cafés.

Travel highlight: The bread selection is at its widest in the morning.

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HiKR Ground

Seoul · Shoot your own K-pop music video, and it costs nothing.

Travel highlight: Mostly free. The popular installations take bookings.

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News Museum Euljiro

Seoul · An Euljiro pop-up space that hosts official fan stores.

Travel highlight: Popular pop-ups run on advance booking and can sell out early.

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Ground Seesaw Hannam

Seoul · A basement space running one curated show after another.

Travel highlight: Each show has its own run — check what is on before you go.

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Musinsa Space Hannam

Seoul · A room kept empty for pop-ups. It is different every time.

Travel highlight: The contents change completely by run — check before you go.

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Musinsa Megastore Seongsu

Seoul · Where brands you have only seen online are in front of you.

Travel highlight: Pop-ups run frequently, and the popular ones need booking ahead.

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Fwee Agit Yeonnam

Seoul · A room built for trying colour on, and no booking needed.

Travel highlight: Walk in without booking, and swatch the colours yourself.

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Espoir Yeonnam

Seoul · A store where you leave having learned something. Sessions are by booking.

Travel highlight: Personal consultations are by booking and fill up quickly.

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Medicube Seongsu

Seoul · A flagship where the beauty devices are there to be used.

Travel highlight: The beauty devices are there for you to try.

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Jung Saem Mool 101 Seongsu

Seoul · A makeup artist's flagship, spread over three floors.

Travel highlight: Programmes such as personal colour diagnosis need booking.

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Amore Seongsu

Seoul · A beauty space inside a converted car workshop, free to try everything.

Travel highlight: Programmes run by reservation, and the second-floor pop-up changes by season.

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Olive Young N Seongsu

Seoul · The ground floor keeps changing — brands rotate through it as pop-ups.

Travel highlight: The ground-floor pop-up changes by season. Open until 10pm.

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Jumadeung 2

Seoul · The second room opened by a chef who appeared on television.

Travel highlight: Second floor, open from five in the evening.

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Mario Chef Yangnim

Gwangju & Jeonnam · A Yangnim-dong pasta house now in its second generation.

Travel highlight: On the same lane as the Yangnim heritage buildings.

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Yusoba Yangnim

Gwangju & Jeonnam · A soba house where cold noodles meet a strong dipping broth.

Travel highlight: On the same route as the Yangnim heritage walk.

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Mentaru

Gwangju & Jeonnam · Thick iekei ramen in Gwangju's Yangnim-dong.

Travel highlight: Closes at five and shuts on Mondays — lunch is the window.

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Meolmeol Pangyo

Gyeonggi · A brunch room on the Baekhyeon-dong café street.

Travel highlight: Weekend brunch hours bring a wait.

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Moai Café

Gyeonggi · A large garden café by the Bukhan River, and dogs come too.

Travel highlight: Dogs are welcome. On the way to the Garden of Morning Calm.

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Jung Ji Young Coffee Roasters

Gyeonggi · The reference point when Haenggung-dong talks about coffee.

Travel highlight: Right by Hwaseong Haenggung and the wall trail.

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Poset Jeonpo

Busan · A shop of postcards that makes you want to write one.

Travel highlight: You can write and post a card on the spot.

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Kori Kori Vintage

Busan · A basement vintage clothing shop in Jeonpo-dong.

Travel highlight: Vintage shops cluster here — worth walking between them.

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Things of Note Gwangan

Busan · A shop of chosen stationery and objects, a block back from Gwangalli.

Travel highlight: Open from noon until seven in the evening.

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Momotaro

Busan · A Japanese character goods shop tucked into a Kkangtong Market arcade.

Travel highlight: Inside a market building — use a map to find the way in.

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Subok Center

Busan · Seventy years in Nampo-dong, serving beef tendon and fish cake soup.

Travel highlight: There is outdoor seating in the alley — it fills first in the evening.

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Hwadam Yeontan

Busan · Boneless chicken feet over coal briquettes, until four in the morning.

Travel highlight: Opens at 7pm and runs until dawn.

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Waikiki Pocha

Busan · A large basement bar on Haeundae's Gunam-ro, opening at six.

Travel highlight: Open from 6pm until the early hours, walkable from Haeundae Station.

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Maenggu Pocha Gwangan

Busan · A block back from Gwangalli, with glasses moving late.

Travel highlight: Follows naturally from the Gwangan Bridge night view.

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Muwol Hannam

Seoul · A Korean drinking house made from a converted detached home.

Travel highlight: Tables are divided by room, which makes it easy to talk.

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Seongsu Odeng

Seoul · An oden bar where the skewers come with warmed sake.

Travel highlight: Opens at four in the afternoon and runs to 1am.

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Yukhoegwan Pocha Euljiro

Seoul · Korean beef served raw, from that day's slaughter.

Travel highlight: It comes as a platter by cut — good for a table sharing.

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Yeonjubang Yeonnam

Seoul · A Yeonnam seafood tavern built on raw sweet shrimp.

Travel highlight: Semi-basement, so the entrance takes finding. Evenings only.

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Tomare Jemyeonso

Jeonbuk · Noodles made on the premises — the name says noodle works.

Travel highlight: It breaks in the afternoon — plan around the gap.

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Chakhan Makchang Iksan

Jeonbuk · Grilled makchang and soju, with terrace seating.

Travel highlight: Evenings only, and best suited to a table sharing.

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Jeonju-neun-Jeonju

Jeonbuk · Jeon pancakes and traditional liquor, on Taejo-ro in the Hanok Village.

Travel highlight: Open daily 11:00–23:00 — it suits dinner after walking the Hanok Village.

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396 Coffee Company

Gyeongbuk · The name Andong gives when coffee comes up.

Travel highlight: In town, easy before or after Hahoe Village or Dosan Seowon.

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Farm Table Yeongildae

Gyeongbuk · Soufflé pancakes, cut with the sea in front of you.

Travel highlight: Soufflé pancakes take time to cook — order with that in mind.

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Gabae Hyangju

Gyeongbuk · Hand-poured coffee inside a hanok.

Travel highlight: Hand-drip only. Closed Tuesdays.

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Ichinisando

Gyeongbuk · Fruit sandos with the fruit left whole — and they can sell out by noon.

Travel highlight: They can sell out in the morning — ask about the afternoon batch.

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Aewol The Sunset

Jeju · Built facing the direction the sun drops into the sea.

Travel highlight: Arrive half an hour before sunset if you want a window seat.

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Seogwi Pian Bakery

Jeju · Glass on all three floors — the sea is there wherever you sit.

Travel highlight: The higher the floor, the wider the sea.

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Godokan Aewol Black Pork

Jeju · Seared in the block, then finished with smoke.

Travel highlight: The pork comes seared in the block. Most people add the kimchi stew.

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Jeju Gwanghae Aewol

Jeju · Braised cutlassfish, with the sea in front of you.

Travel highlight: Served as sets for sharing. Worth checking parking before you go.

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Unidam

Jeju · A restaurant built around sea urchin rice bowls.

Travel highlight: Sea urchin is at its best in summer. Window seats look over the water.

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Mungae Eomeong

Jeju · Seafood ramen with a whole octopus on top, on the Aewol shore.

Travel highlight: A whole octopus tops the clay-pot ramen. Valet parking is available.

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Mont Bell Shelter Gwangbok

Busan · A newer bakery in Gwangbok-dong, built around the croissant.

Travel highlight: On the route up to and down from Yongdusan Park.

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Abraham Coffee Nampo

Busan · The Nampo branch of a roastery from Yeongdo, pouring geisha by the cup.

Travel highlight: Specialty coffee is served by the cup — ask about the beans.

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Yeongyeongjae

Busan · A large café in Jungang-dong, Busan's old downtown.

Travel highlight: Between Busan Station and Nampo-dong — a natural stop on the walk.

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Baohaus

Busan · Taiwanese food rebuilt to its own recipe, and a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide.

Travel highlight: It breaks in the afternoon, and weekends bring a long queue.

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Doldak

Busan · Braised chicken finished on a heated stone plate.

Travel highlight: There is a queue even at weekday lunch. Most people add the potato pancake.

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Baksu Sikdang

Busan · Anju built from whatever the sea sent that day. Evenings only.

Travel highlight: Evenings only, and the wait is long — book ahead.

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Anjjokjip

Busan · Pork and kimchi grilled together on one plate — a Nampo-dong way of doing it.

Travel highlight: Order the kimchi fried rice after the meat — that is the full meal.

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Kottbatt

Seoul · Not a place to buy flowers but to learn them. By reservation only.

Travel highlight: Reservation only — arrange your visit in advance.

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Monoha Hannam

Seoul · The brand's own showroom, where you can try the season's collection.

Travel highlight: A showroom carrying the season's collection — fitting is possible.

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Kind of Summer

Seoul · A small goods shop on the third floor of an Euljiro building.

Travel highlight: Opening days vary — check before you go.

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Poset Seongsu

Seoul · A shop of nothing but postcards — they call it a postcard library.

Travel highlight: Closed Mondays. You can write and post a card on the spot.

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Sounds Hannam

Seoul · Low buildings arranged like a lane, run together as one complex.

Travel highlight: Built to be walked. Easy to combine with Ground Seesaw.

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Hannam Hanbang Tongdak

Seoul · Whole chicken roasted over a wood fire.

Travel highlight: There is a wait even on weekdays — early evening is easier.

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Somunnan Seongsu Gamjatang

Seoul · A pork spine stew house that opens at six in the morning.

Travel highlight: One dish only. On your own, ask for the single earthenware bowl.

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Yeongyo

Seoul · A Yeonnam dim sum house whose xiaolongbao run with soup.

Travel highlight: It closes between lunch and dinner — plan around the break.

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Tak Hannam

Seoul · New York-style tacos, served from a basement room.

Travel highlight: Queues form even on weekdays — arriving at opening helps.

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Nanpo Hannam

Seoul · A dining room serving noodles and ssambap built from Korean ingredients.

Travel highlight: Noodles and ssambap lead the menu. Evenings bring a wait.

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Sancheong Sutbul Garden

Seoul · Black pork over charcoal, and the longest queue for meat in Euljiro.

Travel highlight: The queue is long — set a remote place in line through CatchTable.

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Soi Yeonnam

Seoul · Thai noodles that started in Yeonnam and now run branches across the country.

Travel highlight: Easy to combine with a walk on the Gyeongui Line park.

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Archivist Hannam

Seoul · A café people come to for one cup: the einspänner.

Travel highlight: Weekends mean a wait — try opening time or late afternoon.

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Tutti Hannam

Seoul · A small European-style café in a Hannam lane, and dogs are welcome.

Travel highlight: Dogs are welcome. There are not many seats.

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Dotori Oven

Seoul · Greek yoghurt and baked pastries, made to go together.

Travel highlight: Most people order a baked pastry and the yoghurt together.

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George Seoul

Seoul · Third floor of an ageing Euljiro building — you take the lift up.

Travel highlight: Third floor, and no parking — come by public transport.

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Aubeurre Bakery

Seoul · A large bakery café in the middle of Euljiro, with an outdoor terrace.

Travel highlight: Open from 8am — early is the easiest time to get a seat.

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Hannam Jakupsil

Seoul · A second-floor terrace café you reach by climbing the stairs.

Travel highlight: Walkable from the Leeum Museum — try for a terrace seat.

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Coffee Hanyakbang

Seoul · A café on the ground where Hyeminseo, the office of the physician Heo Jun, once stood.

Travel highlight: The sign is small — go into the alley with a map open.

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Passion 5

Seoul · A bakery built by a hotel, and you will stand a while at the case.

Travel highlight: Open every day of the year, from half past seven in the morning.

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Jirinseong

Jeonbuk · Chillies go into the black bean sauce — a Gunsan idea you will not find elsewhere.

Travel highlight: Chilli jjajang is the house dish — order the plain one if heat is not for you.

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Fritz Coffee Seongsan

Jeju · Climb to the roof and Seongsan Ilchulbong stands directly in front of you.

Travel highlight: Opens at 8am — an easy stop before climbing Ilchulbong.

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Mango Day

Jeju · Shaved ice buried under whole apple mango, at the foot of Seongsan Ilchulbong.

Travel highlight: Well placed for after the climb up Seongsan Ilchulbong.

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Heian

Gyeongbuk · A large bakery café that takes the sea in through its glass, baking fresh each day.

Travel highlight: Open late — good for sitting with the night view.

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Skunk Works

Gyeongbuk · A Gyeongju hanok left as it was, with a café placed inside it.

Travel highlight: Pushchairs and dogs are both welcome.

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Tarteudang

Gyeongbuk · A mochi too big for one hand, with whole fruit inside.

Travel highlight: It closes early when the fruit runs out; late afternoon leaves little choice.

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Wolyeongdang

Gyeongbuk · A hanok café looking down on Wolyeong Bridge, named for the moon that rises over it.

Travel highlight: When the bridge lights come on at night the view changes completely.

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Of Bremen

Gyeongbuk · A large bakery café facing the sea, with a carousel inside.

Travel highlight: It opens directly onto the Yeongildae beach promenade.

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Jamae Galbi Jeongol

Jeonbuk · Mul-galbi — ribs that Jeonju cooks in broth rather than over fire.

Travel highlight: Order the chive fried rice after the meat — that is how the meal ends.

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Jungdong Hotteok

Jeonbuk · Griddled without oil, which is why it tastes clean.

Travel highlight: Sundays it opens only in the afternoon. Takeaway from a street stall.

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Binhaewon

Jeonbuk · A hall open to the second floor, hung with red lanterns, unchanged since the 1950s.

Travel highlight: Closed Mondays, with a break in the afternoon.

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Bokseongru

Jeonbuk · Open six hours a day, and closed the moment the food runs out.

Travel highlight: Closed Sundays. Go before lunch or risk a wasted trip.

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Mongtan Aewol

Jeju · One long rib, cut with the bone left whole.

Travel highlight: Without a booking the wait is long — reserve through CatchTable.

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Suksungdo Aewol

Jeju · Black pork aged twice, then cut thick.

Travel highlight: The Aewol café street is close by for a walk afterwards.

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Woojin Haejangguk

Jeju · A bracken stew thick enough to stand a spoon in.

Travel highlight: Close to Jeju Airport — good on an arrival morning or a departure day.

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Tonshow Nampo

Busan · Fried twice, then smoked once over charcoal.

Travel highlight: The Berkshire K hirekatsu is Nampo-only. Queue through CatchTable.

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Subyeon Choego Dwaeji Gukbap

Busan · A bowl of gukbap at three in the morning, if that is when you need it.

Travel highlight: Season it yourself with chives and salted shrimp — that is the local way.

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Haeundae Amso Galbi

Busan · Sixty years on ribs alone, and now in the Michelin Guide.

Travel highlight: It closes between lunch and dinner for an afternoon break.

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Lee Jae Mo Pizza

Busan · Where people in Busan queue instead of ordering a chain pizza.

Travel highlight: Closed Sundays, no car park. Join the queue through CatchTable.

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Momos Coffee Marine City

Busan · To drink coffee from a World Barista Champion, you have to come to Busan.

Travel highlight: No car park of its own — use a paid lot nearby.

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Polv Yeonnam

Seoul · Open the door and the smell of baking pastry arrives first.

Travel highlight: No car park of its own — walking or public transport is easier.

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Paper Crane Euljiro

Seoul · A red-brick building, all three floors of it a bakery. Open until ten.

Travel highlight: Open 08:30–22:00, to 21:00 on Sundays. The bread selection is widest in the morning.

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Turtlehip Yeonnam

Seoul · Lettering cakes ordered today and collected today — the shop you remember when time is short.

Travel highlight: A lettering cake can be ordered and collected the same day.

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GRAZ COFFEE LAB Seongsu

Seoul · A shot of espresso under a layer of cream. People come for this one cup.

Travel highlight: Drink it unstirred so the cream and espresso arrive in layers.

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